Hola from Uruguay
It’s the 2nd of Jan. I’ve finally recovered from all of the travelling with Jane and after efficiently dropping my large rucksack off at my future Buenos Aires hostel am planning to go to Uruguay. I caught a taxi to the ferry terminal with every intention of getting the 11am ferry.Absolutely no chance !! Unless you’re from Uruguay or Argentina you can’t book the tickets online and the office had been shut in town for christmas. Had I known how long the ticket queue was I’d have got there at the crack of dawn. An hour and a half later I’m told by the sales desk that the first available ferry is at 5pm. I decide to go to the bus station but the buses there leave even later so it’s going to have to be the ferry. I went back in to town to the office and queued there. At least it was a bit quicker. Although I seem to be able to buy a ticket I can’t seem to get one back, so I buy a one way.
I decide to go to Colonia first. I’m pleasantly surprised to find I’ve been sold a ticket in 1st class so I get a free glass of champagne and an incredibly comfortable seat. As I’ve only got a small bag I can race off the ferry and grabbed one of the last rooms in the Hostel Colonia. It’s a very friendly place. I don’t have much time so immediately go out to walk around. Colonia is aptly named. It has a very colonial feel to it and as it’s history dates back to the last part of the18th century when Portugal and Spain fought over it. It has some amazing old architecture (the Basilica via the cobbled streets is pictured above before the storm). The streets of the old part of town are cobbled and there are so many vintage cars on the streets. You could just relax here for days. I start my walking tour and notice how the wind has picked up. A storm is brewing, I’m sure of it. The Autumn leaves (even though it’s summer) were being picked up like mini tornedos and then the rain came. I managed to get in a deep doorway of a house to shelter. The rain and the wind were wild. Tables and chairs that had been sitting neatly outside restaurants were being thrown down the streets. The locals were closing their shutters and smiled at me as I huddled out of the rain. As I looked down a huge grasshopper landed on my leg, I shook my leg to get rid of it and my flip flop flew across the road. Luckily there was no traffic as they’re a new pair (I’ve worn the others out) and I can’t imagine that hopping for the rest of my time here would be a very good look.As the rain eased a huge rainbow appeared in the sky behind the Basilica, so that was pretty cool. I have a great before and after the storm shot.
Now the storm has abaited I resume my tour and head first to the old settlement area and the battlement wall.It was too late to go into the museums but I got to see the old lighthouse and the port. My last stop was the Basilica. It’s so white and clean inside. Although the flashing nativity scene was a bit crass.Dinner time and I went to El Drugstore. An unusual place for dinner one might think, but it’s a great restaurant where you can even eat a meal in the vintage car outside. I have a vegetable gnocchi which is both delicious and filling. Uruguay is definitely less well off than Argentina and gnocchi was the staple diet for people around the 29th of each month when they are ran out of money before pay day. But it was so good !!
The next day I caught the bus to the capital Montevideo. This is just under 2 hours away. I caught a taxi to the hostel. Here the taxi drivers tip the people who hail them for you rather than the passengers having to tip, I think I prefer that system, saves me money. The driver misread where I wanted to go but as the hostel was my second choice I thought I’d try it anyway. No joy they’re full, and so was the next one. My third choice Hotel Montevideo had room. It’s more than a hostel but still quite cheap, and I have my own room !! I don’t think you’re allowed to work there unless you’re over 70 and the staff treated me like a long lost daughter, it was so sweet, who needs a cheap hostel anyway!! Montevideo is a capital city that’s small enough to walk around in a day so of course it’s time for a walking tour, despite the boiling heat. I walk to the Plaza Independencia, the main square and go down some steps to where the ashes of Uruguay’s hero General Artega lay to rest. As I cross the square something unusual happens. A taxi actually stops for me at a zebra crossing, yes they are a little more laid back here than their Argentinian neighbours. I walk past the theatre down to the old town. This must be slightly dodgier as suddenly there are tourist police on the streets. Again you can see the buildings are just that little bit more neglected. The museums seem to be shut so I head to an area popular with artists over the weekends. Wow, I’ve stumbled across a mini Covent Garden. It’s great, a cobbled square and loads of restaurants. I have to say I feel a wee bit nostalgic for London, then I remember it’s January and it will be freezing so that feeling soon vanishes. Actually I have been home sick a couple of times and then I just remember how lucky I am. I think month 2 in Cambodia was the worst, but thanks for the drunken phone calls at Christmas, miss you all. Next I found a Museum of Carnaval (outfits pictured above) so had a walk around that. When is carnaval and where will I be ? Bolivia I think, I wonder if they have one there.Time for a bit of shopping and an art gallery and then I head to the beach. Yes, wouldn’t it be great if all capital cities had beaches.
The views weren’t bad at all !! I watched some volleyball and then went for dinner. Jugglers stood at the traffic lights entertaining cars to try and earn some extra money. They were pretty successful. There do seem to be a few people begging here but no more than in Buenos Aires.
The next day I’m up early again to catch the bus to Punta Del Este. I thought my hoteliers were going to adopt me before I left. I hadn’t even heard of Punta before I left the Uk but it is the South American playground. I’d put it somewhere below Monaco but above Marbella in terms of taste (only with smaller boats). I think most of the places are owned by Argentinians and this is where people come to party. It was as I expected it to be, huge. For some people it’s too much, but if you know what to expect then it’s okay. Suddenly there are loads of English travellers again. I’m staying in Hostel 1949. It’s got a great location but is the most expensive hostel bed I’ve had so far. It’s okay but not as great as the Lonely Planet makes out or maybe that’s just because it’s booked solid for the holidays. Put it this way my 8 bed dorm had 9 beds and ended up with 11 people in it the first night (now you’re not so jealous).The shops are designer all the way, Valentino, Luis Vuitton, you name it, it’s here.
There was a delay checking in (probably as everyone partys so late they don’t get up) so I didn’t make it to the beach until 3pm. My sun tan ressembles a roast chicken sandwich with brown bread. Brown on the outsides and white in the middle, after two days here it’s still the same. I have to say after 3 hours of people watching I’m bored so head for a walk along the Ramblas (a road that stretches around the coast). I get back in time to watch a very cloudy sunset. There’s people in my dorm having an early night so I decide to do the same. The next morning I’m back at the beach. I can’t seem to find any postcards so read instead. I listen to a bit of Spanish as I want to start school next week.
When I get back to the hostel I have some new room mates. Victor an older Liberace type character and Goran a Serbian living in the USA. We end up going for a beer, but I’m back by 1am as I have yet another early bus tomorrow. They did actually have a rugby 7’s tournament on but I couldn’t find anyone to go, which was a shame.
I catch the bus back to Montevideo. I did in fact manage to get a ferry ticket from this side but have to go back to the capital first. For the first time since Cambodia my bus breaks down. I don’t panic. The worst thing that can happen is I stay one more night and catch a ferry tomorrow. Another bus arrives within 30 minutes and being the machismo society that they are they let the women and children go first. So there are some advantages. I arrive in plenty of time to catch my bus and ferry back to Argentina. I did almost manage to lose my immigration card but found that at the last minute so was allowed on the boat after all. It’s time to go back to the fabulous Buenos Aires. I think I’d liked to have gone a bit more off the gringo trail here but at the moment my first priority is to learn Spanish, how exciting !!
Transport count:
Plane = 18, Bus = 74, Train = 2, Boat =16, Sunglasses = 6, Mosquito Repellant = 8, Books Read = 14 1/2 (couldn’t get on with Faulkner)
Bags lost twice.
Take care all
Sally
